Jerry Lee’s Cajun Foods

I know, I know. Jerry Lee’s is all about the boudin. And the headcheese. And cracklins. And a very fine jerky. But it is impossible for me to think of Jerry Lee’s and not also think about boiling crawfish for a living with Carlton LeGrange. We were based out of his parents’ place in Watson. That’s where the propane tank was and the boiling rigs were kept and repaired and the crawfish and beer coolers were located. And when we would load up early in the morning to go do a job somewhere our first stop was always Jerry Lee’s on Greenwell Springs Road. Breakfast of champions. A cup of black coffee or a Schlitz tallboy and a couple of links of hot boudin to start a long, long day. Lot of guys milling around waiting to order or just shooting the shit. Boots and jeans and the mingled smoke of wood fire and cigarettes and everyone knew there was work to do. Red was still alive then and he’d yell his greetings as he was pushing the boudin into links. Jerry Lee was there a lot, shaking hands, smiling, putting orders together. We worked a balloon fest one time out at the fairgrounds and that was where the boudin omelet was born. We had to get out there and set up for the dawn firing and lift off and although we sold poboys later in the day, we had to come up with a breakfast offering and boudin omelets filled that spot. You can get one anytime now at The Chimes on Highland Road and it’s evolved. Topped with white sausage gravy and stuffed with boudin and pepperjack cheese. Jerry Lee’s still has a hot deli box with boudin poboys inside. He uses that hot dog bun style poboy bread with boudin and pepperjack or American cheese. They are so good. So the photo on the left is the real secret to boiling crawfish. That is when you cut the fire off and let them soak on their own for 30 or forty minutes. No ice, no pulling them out and throwing them in an ice chest with butter and Old Bay, just let them cool slowly and sink as the tail meat shrinks away from the shell and the seasoned water gets inside and works its magic with the fat in the head and the bugs fill with flavor while you down another beer. No point in rushing the crawfish with ice. You are diluting the water and inhibiting the interaction of hot water and crawfish fat. When you get three quarters foam across the pot, cut them off and wait.