If this were about design, decor, or drink menus there would be no contest, but this is about wings that aren’t just dumped in the deep fryer naked then slathered in some combination of Frank’s Red Hot, Tiger Sauce or barbecue sauce when they’re done. Ubiquitous is upscale slang for you can find those anywhere. This is about two unique treatments right here in Baton Rouge from two of our newest restaurants, Soji: Modern Asian on Government and Jed’s Local on Jefferson. First up, the Szechuan Wings from Soji.
The combination of sweet and spicy is powerful, but perhaps the greatest strength of this dish is the fact they use only the second joint of the wing split lengthwise so the bones are separated and you leave no meat on them as you chow down. How many times have you fought to get everything off the second joint (when you’ve had the opportunity to have more than just the drumette) without looking like a dog going after the bone? The sauce is sweet, the batter chili infused and the burn is constant and low key and invigorating. When you’re done you want to scream These are the best wings I’ve ever had! but–Jed’s.
Pork confit chicken wings with buttermilk bleu ranch
As best I can tell, Jed’s uses pork fat and white flour to batter the wings with a generous amount of chili powder added into the mix. The bacon/chili finish works perfectly with the buttermilk bleu ranch dip. You could call it a one-two punch. And they know how to cook them as well. Chicken has a zone, and that zone, not underdone or overdone, is very small for wings. Jed’s nails it every time. Still juicy, firm and, as Foghorn Leghorn would tell us I say, I say, I say, boy–these are damn fine wings.
So who’s the winner? You are, of course. I can’t pick between the two. They are both different and delectable, and when I get one, I find myself going to get the other that same week. I suggest you do the same. Take your time. Try them both. Several times.