Gino’s Restaurant on Bennington

Going to a white tablecloth place for lunch might seem a bit excessive, but to me it’s more like a trip to the day spa–quiet, relaxing, with much better food. Gino’s has been high end with down home comfort food for a long time. I’m not going to throw around any words like splendid or exquisite because I don’t think that is the goal at all for Gino’s in particular, or Italian cuisine as a whole. I’ve always thought of Italian, or at least Italian American food as matrilineal. Guys can and do cook it for sure, but it always feels like it’s their mom’s or someone’s mom’s recipe they are working from. I think the goal is to make you feel that big warm hug that you’ve been missing. Gino’s succeeds.

It’s quiet with just a bit of Italian rusticana playing in the background, everyone knows what they’re doing, no rookies anywhere near the floor. You’re taken care of without being pestered, and the food is very, very good. I wanted to try their arancini since I’ve never had it anywhere before. Too easy to get distracted by lasagnas and aglio e olio and all the various parmesans, but this trip I was determined. I went with Mama’s Special salad and an order of table bread to go with the arancini. All very good, very special, and I do have even more love for the red gravy there. Seems like it just gets better with time. I wonder if they’ve had the same pot on the stove for the last 30 years. Ha, I know that’s just a myth. Right?

The decor is a combination of spare walls with nice art and cluttered shelves of curios that seem like they took a while to collect. All of this is just impressions, really, but I love Impressionism. Renoir is my favorite. He was a master of scenes where time stands still. Here’s a couple more interior shots. Very comfortable place. Very comforting food.